If the more popular Banff and Jasper National Parks in Western Canada were compared to the step sisters in the Cinderella story, then Waterton Lakes which straddles the Alberta/Montana border is definitely Canada’s Cinderella park.
The park has not fallen to the commercial demands that other Canadian parks have. The townsite is small with a good but limited selection of amenities, this is definitely not a first come first serve townsite, if you do not have a campsite or a room reserved in the summer months you will be out of luck.
Waterton has an abundance of wildlife and most are easy to spot if you know where to look, the park has populations of Bighorn sheep, Black bear, Elk, White-tailed & Mule deer and Moose.
The park is also a destination for bird watchers who are likely to see American dippers, Grey jays, Mountain chickadees, Ospreys, Golden eagles, Red tailed hawks and Great horned owls and not to mention a plethora of waterfowl that migrate through the park every fall on their way south for the winter.
Other popular activities are climbing/hiking, cycling, fishing, golf and photography. One designation that many people are not aware of is the “International Dark Sky Park” title that Waterton holds. Dark Sky Park status means that the parks – and their communities – are reducing the amount of light that is sent up into the sky at night. This makes them a perfect place to stargaze!
I had the opportunity the first weekend in June to hit the road for a quick 4 day bike trip but instead of travelling directly from Edmonton to Waterton I took the roundabout route through Canmore to highway 93 then south through Kootenay National Park to Radium Hot Springs then on to Cranbrook where I spent my first night.
My second day was an easy 3 hour hop over to Waterton. I arrived at the park gates mid morning to some construction work at the entrance but no lineups and compared to Jasper or Banff the entry fee was nominal. The narrow 6 km of two lane from the park gate to the townsite wound it’s way along creeks and around lakes before finally terminating at the townsite. The townsite is quite small and really conducive to exploring on foot or on a bicycle and after I had secured a campsite and set up my tent I chose the “on foot” method of exploring. It has been many, many years since I have been in Waterton Lakes so everything seemed new and quaint to me.
On my final morning in the park I took my time packing up and getting ready to leave, I was entertained by the antics of some magpies that had found a Great Horned Owl to harass, they were making quite a fuss dipping and diving at the owl, the owl seemed mildly bothered by the magpies antics and issued the occasional warning cry. When the owl departed the tree it attempted to grab one of the magpies in it’s talons, it was amazing to see how effortlessly the owl went from flapping to gliding with it’s talons outstretched then back to flapping, all effortlessly and all silent, no wonder owls are known as “grey ghosts”.
When I finally got mobile and hit the road I exited the park heading east towards Cardston where I would cut north to Ft. Macleod and the Crowsnest Hwy. The Crowsnest (Hwy 3) travels east through the heart of Alberta’s feed lot infrastructure, feed lots are numerous and there’s definitely an uptick in 18 wheel cattle haulers on this stretch of road and to say they’re moving along is an understatement. I had to log about 75 km on #3 before I cut north heading for Drumheller. The trip north through places like Vulcan was relaxed and interesting, this is the heart of grain country and the fields were alive with the last of spring seeding and fertilizing, in places like Vulcan the towns entire existence revolves around what’s going on in those surrounding fields.
I’m always amazed when arriving at the Red Deer River valley, you drive along flat prairie and then suddenly you’re at the rim of the badlands, they spread out in all directions and follow the Red Deer River east and west all the way to the horizon. In some places the drop from the prairie to the river can be steep and winding and keeping your eyes on the road and not the scenery can be a challenge.
Drumheller was my last night out on the road, I stayed in the River’s Edge Campsite & Cabins site, I’ve stayed here many times in the past and a stop in Drumheller is not complete without a ride to the Last Chance Saloon for one of their famous burgers and a beer. You can read about previous trips to the Red Deer River valley and the Last Chance Saloon in this story (https://touring03.wordpress.com/2015/12/) If you’re going to Drumheller make sure you hit the Last Chance, the place is for sale and has been for awhile, there’s no guarantee new owners will continue to operate it as it operates now.
The 3 hour run north from Drumheller to Edmonton was uneventful except for a little rain encountered south of Stettler. This was such a fun relaxed trip, 1600 km over 4 easy days was such a great way to kick off the riding season that I may have to make this an annual trip.
Adventures on 2 wheels 
July 7, 2021 at 7:27 pm
Have not been down to Waterton Lakes so enjoyed your description, and the tale of your journey. An area that I like is around Grand Cache, and then to travel up to Grande Prairie.
July 7, 2021 at 9:33 pm
That is another beautiful area of our province.